There's been a lot going on in the last week in Arkansas climbing. Perhaps the most talked about is the FA of Off The Rails v10 (a.k.a. Dub's Cave Project). If you haven't watched the video yet, check it out here first.
First off, Congrats Brian, you have a great name. Secondly, way to go on the project. As the first to climb the project, you have the right to name the climb. That being said, the name "Off The Rails" was not in the running with the locals who may have otherwise earned the right to name it. Unassisted Helicopter, When The Smoke Clears, and Pronto Pup were in consideration but those who may have bestowed this seemingly four-star line with its name will just have to hunt and climb harder next time around. In other news, The Invasion crag remains voluntarily closed while people continue to "visit" it.
Oh well, I guess you can't have your cake and eat it too.
Smash Box went to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch this weekend to see if we could find points and points we found. Jason finished Saturday with a flash of A Long Road Home v7 and on Sunday was successful second-go effort on Trapeze Artist 5.12b. No points for me Saturday as I didn't get out there till later in the evening and proceeded to smash brews until the early morning hours. Sunday was equally successful for me. I have picked my project for the season, Kung Fu v8 and wanted to make some progress and kind of test the waters. The last move of Kung Fu is Moondye Stand v5 which I was able to complete on Sunday with a few handfuls of tries. I really wanted to complete a four-star v5 on the day and bounced over to War Bonnet to see if I had what it required. Five tries later, War Bonnet was moved from my "To Do" list to my "Have Done" list. The sport climbing action was heating up as the afternoon saw some warmer temps and I wanted to attempt an onsight on Big Top 5.11c. I was unsuccessful making it through four of the clips out the steep-angle and pumping off shortly after. Better ruck tomorrow (read as with an Indian accent).
The most successful part of the weekend was the trip back. We were able to stuff four dudes, five crash pads, and enough camping and climbing equipment for a Himalayan Expedition into a Toyota Yaris. Impressive, yeah, we think so.
Hit us up with your questions and comments about the Dub's Cave Project. We love to hear what everyone has to say. Especially you DP. Also, Thanks to the four Germans who checked us out. Holler at yer boys.
- Smash Box
P.S. Here is the chatter I was referring to. There were also some texts sent to various people for their comments here.
Cole Fennel Looks like your gonna have to keep your sweet finds a little more DL.
September 28 at 10:47pm ·
Patrick Weldon DOIN IT OLD SCHOOL!!! I plan to be a ghost this season gunna do alot of searching no talking.
September 28 at 11:03pm ·
Jason Powell its better to have someone do it and establish it than a bunch of punters (including me) trying it all season and maybe coming out with a send.
September 29 at 1:54am · · 2 people
David Powell i support my brother whole-heartedly in this, but OFF THE RAIL; what the hell?! it's okay to be strong and establish where others cannot, but it's not okay to give lame names (Jade instead of Lourdes of Chaos). Shoulda, coulda, woulda in hindsight.
September 29 at 2:55am ·
David Powell why would i call it something it's not. it's called ab lounge and not her majesty. it's called the prophet not paying the rent, it's called dunkie doobie and not shit on darren's fucking face. although i would much rather see the second name in the LRC guidebook and talk about a climb named that, i will certainly accept any name in a heartbeat to get on a special, established climb.
September 29 at 3:17am ·
Cole Fennel I think thats one of the silliest rants I've ever heard.
September 29 at 4:41am · · 7 people
Evan Ramsey And I wonder why people don't wanna climb in Arkansas. It's all this moaning after anything in the damn state is sent. It's just a rock in the woods. He climbed it, he named it, it's over. Go climb it yourself and just enjoy it. Let's go boulder!
September 29 at 6:41am ·
Ben Putman Evan your psych is nearly unparalleled in Arkansas but I think you lack any real connection to rock climbing. Anyone who has sat underneath an unclimbed boulder, especially in the vastly undeveloped realm of Arkansas, can appreciate something cool about a pleasant Arkansas secret. Yes it is just rock climbing, but I know who I'm not telling about new areas!
September 29 at 7:58am · · 1 person
Andrew Gertsch This is why Arkansas rock is so under developed. You think you have come across something no one has ever seen before and somehow assume ownership. Its public land and public climbing, at Cowell anyway. Put away the ego and selfishness, they dont help you climb better. Having said that, I'm really sorry you didn't FA it Dub, I know you put alot of time into that one. There will always be another project.
September 29 at 8:21am ·
Evan Ramsey Dang ben, you're taking this a little personal. Well, if you'll come out to font these next couple weekends I'd be happy to show you some equally sick new boulders we've found. You can even keep em secret if you'd like.
September 29 at 10:09am ·
Rich McDade I stil have secret areas there and I live 3 states west. I have a hard time giving them up. Its nice to have your own area with no tick marks or at least your own and not a bunch of ya hoos running around.
September 29 at 10:31am ·
Ben Putman
The real pity here is not that us v8/9 climbers couldn't do it, but that it gets named something so lame it is now unmotivating to go back to. Name it green and white stripe route and give it A- rating. At least that's funny. Dub hasn't be...See MoreSeptember 29 at 10:34am · · 2 people
Evan Ramsey Oh ben, you're so funny. Dubs cave isn't some huge secret. Scott and I took P-Rob to it last season. With Patricks permission. The only reason it didn't get done then is because of 2 feet of snow that fell the next day! You didn't even know it existed until I took Ted out there. You're welcome for knowing it exists. You should be grateful, not complaining.
September 29 at 10:44am ·
Ben Putman Alongside my love for ranting I would like express my heterosexual man love for all contributors to convo. Even the rope climbers (hehe). Sometimes my sarcasm seems a bit vicious for those not accustom to it. Peace indeed
September 29 at 11:28am ·
David Powell
I wished it were put up a long time ago, but since it wasn't I would've at least liked to know what Patrick might have called it. Maybe he just calls it Dub's cave but maybe he had been dreaming of something else. It's not that places sho...See MoreSeptember 29 at 12:07pm ·
Elliott Grissom Personally, I'm psyched on it whether it has been sent by ten people is called Poopface or whatever. It is a sick line. And now there's new beta to try. But then again, I live in Texas.
September 29 at 1:30pm · · 1 person
Ariel Alexandra Smith
haha, as the only female to contribute to this conversation I have to point out that the majority of you sound like a bunch of girls. Especially since the establisher and the first ascender have declined to comment. Seems like they are ok w...See MoreSeptember 29 at 2:41pm · · 2 people
Patrick Weldon
Plug yalls vages fuck!!! Arkansas got a new 5 star line. I have 15 more where that came from and will have 500 by the end of the season. I like looking for boulders more than I like climbing them no biggie. I suck at climbing is why I didnt...See MoreSeptember 29 at 3:17pm · · 4 people
Stark Ligon hey Dub...i think there's a chance me and some of the boys are going to throw a little 'Stark's Outa Here' party up around cowell this weekend...Keg saturday night is the word on the street. Drop by and do some keg stands with us!
September 29 at 3:28pm · · 2 people
Alex Brady just read this quote actually. quite relevant. you guys have probably seen it too..
" its like we all forget we participate in the most insignificant activities on the planet. We're ROCK CLIMBERS."
September 29 at 5:40pm · · 2 people
Kirby McCoy As a long time Arkansas boulderer, I would love to see a closer bouldering community. I completely agree with David Powell on this whole rant. I think that would be a great thing for all of us boulderers. Thats just my 2 cents but it doesnt really matter because I live in Springfield, Missouri so im not a real arkansas climber haha.
September 29 at 7:34pm ·
Patrick Weldon HUSH MISSOURON!!! Just kidding. NO BUT I HATE ALL OF YOU!!! just kidding. NO BUT YALL ARE ALL EGO DRIVEN SNOBS!!! just kidding. NO BUT AGREED!!! not kidding.
September 29 at 8:12pm ·
First, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzujNk-yYrE&feature=related
ReplyDeleteSecondly, the enviromental awareness from you guys this past weekend is admirable. That's a lot of bodies and pads in a tiny car. However, you guys need to sack up and get some real points. Brian, you are an exception since you never really boulder. Moondye Stand in a beast of a difficult moderate problem in the warmer temps and Warbonnet is a great tick off of the list as well. It is really hard to climb well on a rope and on boulders at the same time. You're either in shape for one or the other or you're climbing in the 14 grade on both. So lets so some serious sending and not a little bit of both!
Brian! Nice new website! Keep up the good work! Also, love the banter going back and forth between your site's visitors; I'm eating it up like a teenager eats up mirror time. Whether I think it's healthy is another thing, but it means your site is getting a lot of attention, so you're doing something right!
ReplyDeleteWhat are you using to make the beats? Filming looks good!
I hope to climb with you soon, buddy! Stay strong finishing up!!
Best of the best,
domi,
nate